It is day one for me in Barbados, and the clock hands swing on.  I have now been awake 18 hours. Gretchen, my new friend and next-door neighbour, has gone to get my landlady whom I have yet to meet.  I can hear them outside.

- She's arrived has she?  

That would be Mariette.

Mariette, my new landlady, calls a short 'hello' through the screen door and then steps politely inside.  I give her a warm 'hello' back amidst a sea of binbags.  Next because I can see we are both reasonable people and I want it to be all right I move forward and Mariette does as well.  We briefly hug.

When I step back away from her we survey each other.  Mariette is a light-skinned black woman older than myself and fashionably dressed.  I think she's no fool but I like her.

Mariette looks from me to the binbags.  

- I see you're packing up?

- Oh, I was just organising what you left in your cupboards so I could free up some space.  

I suddenly feel exhausted.

Mariette looks uncertain but she goes on to say:

- I certainly hope you will be happy here.

We both look at the dark apartment and its tobacco-coloured walls.  Also the rather sad fridge and the unmoored cooker.  I cross the room to pull open the one kitchen drawer and have a quick look there as well.  I have a list in my head and it is lengthening.

- I wondered if I could have a kettle?

I try to soften the request. 

- I'm English.  We drink tea.

- Tea...

Mariette frowns and seems puzzled.

- Also a toaster if possible.

I go over to the only cupboard I haven't opened yet.

- And a cutting board and a sharp knife?

Mariette sits down.

- Gretchen?

Mariette calls through the screen door and my duplicitous friend fully arrives.

- Gretchen, have you got a kettle?

- I bought one.

Gretchen says it in her full beauty.  I feel ambushed from all sides.  Gretchen rented the apartment next door so Mariette was also her landlady.

- It is usual to provide a kettle in a furnished six-month let.

I say it calmly but think to myself : Where am I - Oz?

- Well!

Mariette says it brightly.

- I am sure we can sort something out.

Then she and I and Gretchen open the screen door and go and stand outside.  

In the four months I was to spend in Barbados I would carry this thought first to last: What a beautiful island - O my what a beautiful island.

Gretchen and Mariette began now to speak to each other in a manner I could only partially understand.  I had the feeling I was being shown the way of it.  All three of us were barefoot and the most gorgeous evening was coming down.  Their conversation had a musing quality with no sense of urgency about the slightest thing and they both took turns complaining.  

Gretchen said she had been up since early that morning and working non-stop.  I looked at her langorous body.  She said she had been so busy and she was tired now.  I smiled sympathetically.  She went on to say that she had been up and down that road two times in her car already and what she needed a holiday.  

I thought to myself: You would die - or become a super model - in London.  

Mariette's thread was more interesting.  She had a repair she wanted to get to around the back.  She has somebody she liked for that sort of thing in Florida.  Gretchen supplied the names of a few workers in Barbados and Mariette nodded deep in thought.  I asked if she had a house in Florida and she said she did.  I considered the economics of this in light of my missing kettle and toaster.

I decided to bring the subject back to the binbags.

- I better get inside and start unpacking so I can go to bed.  Would you like a hand carrying those binbags upstairs?

I had realised by now that Mariette and her husband lived above me.

Mariette looked doubtful and Gretchen studied a point of darkening landscape just off to the right.  

- If you can leave them in the closet for now Jeannie.  I will get to them tomorrow.

I had no choice.  My request was deemed too much.  For my part I was desperate to clean and de-clutter.  I also had the ever-growing notion that I would have to repaint.  I could never be happy waking up to the stain of tobacco.

I wanted all of it agreed and begun before I went to bed.  It was impossible.  I knew the right thing to do was to go to sleep.  Get some rest and then reassess in the morning.

I did need a cup of tea though.

- I was just wondering...

I began and Mariette cut me off.  She sounded a bit like a school mistress.

- Gretchen, until I look into this can you loan Jeannie your kettle?

Gretchen gave me a smile that was alive with mischief and turned on the spot.  Then she went indoors and brought it to me.

To be continued...